Our flight got in at about 11am and we got a train into the city centre, dropped our bags off at the lockers in the train station and went to look around until our Airbnb host was back from work. We got lunch at Kompa 9, which was 45 DKK (£5.22) for a veggie sandwich, which we’d come to find was surprisingly reasonable here. It was a really cute little cafe with a nice outside area we sat in, and it had tiny pain au chocolats! Bet they’re still about 4 quid.
We arrived at our AirBnB in Sluseholmen, which is an area on the canals, and met our lovely host Line who gave us a map and some places to go and things to do. Her flat was so nicely decorated, spacious and clean and situated right on the canals. I didn’t get any good photos of it but you can see and book it here. It was about a 25 minute bus ride to Copenhagen Central Station, and if you get the Copenhagen Card (and you should), bus travel is free. We looked at hostels but they were pretty expensive in Copenhagen (as is literally everything), and this was a little bit more but a lot nicer than a hostel. This was the view from one of our balconies:
As it was boiling and we’d been travelling all day, we decided to go to the harbour baths nearby. Copenhagen has a collection of places to swim in the harbour with lifeguards and they’re all free I think (at least ours was). It also had a sauna. The first thing we noticed was it’s full of jellyfish – not the ones that sting as we first thought, but they’re still weird little jelly blobs I didn’t really want to touch. It’s also COLD, or refreshing I guess. I didn’t stay in long because you can’t touch the floor and I’m scared of drowning, plus the jellyfish freaked me out a bit, but we stayed at the side lying in the sun.
Next we went back home and got ready to go out for dinner, we went to a pizza place called Mother in the meatpacking district that Line had told us was really good. When we got there it was heaving and we had to wait 20 minutes for a table outside, so we headed to the supermarket and bought some wine and plastic cups and sat on a grass verge in the time being. Classy, I know.
The pizza there was SO good. It was pretty expensive, I’d say we spend about £25 each altogether – I got a Capriciosa without ham and 2 glasses of white wine – but 100% worth it.
We decided to give Tinder Social a try – basically it’s Tinder for groups of people. You say who you’re going out with then you can all swipe left or right on other groups going out that night. If one of each group swipes right on the other, it puts you into a group chat and you can all arrange to meet up. We matched with 2 boys named Tom and agreed to meet them at Jolene’s, a bar not round the corner from Mother.
We sat in the bar and drank with them for a while, and had a good time but I was really tired and wanted to call it a night and then meet up with them the next night. Lucy was plastered at this point and had other plans. I tried to drag her home at around 12:30am, she kept trying to walk back to the bar complaining that her ‘feet hurt when she walked in the other direction’. When I got her in a taxi she stormed out of it saying that she had to get out because she was running out of phone battery??? At this point my phone was dead, I was so tired and annoyed I stormed off round the corner for a bit to calm down and when I’d got back she had disappeared. Alone in Copenhagen with no battery I headed back to the bar to hopefully find the two Toms and message her from their phones. They messaged her for me and helped me look for her but she wasn’t being co-operative and I just stayed out with them at Jolene’s and they kindly let me stay at theirs. I charged my phone and messaged Lucy to discover she’d spent the night with the Copenhagen police, who had thankfully not arrested her but safely delivered her home.
I had to get up and get a ludicrously expensive Uber back to ours from the Toms’ AirBnB in Norrebro. Safe to say we didn’t see them again after that night… The hangover kicked in in a big way and we laid around for a while, unable to move or eat and piecing together what on earth happened to Lucy. Apparently the police were trying to get out of her who she’d come to Copenhagen with and she couldn’t remember. Charming.
We finally made it up and out and headed over to Cafe Miao – my favourite kind of cafe. This one has a 50 DKK minimum spend per person but offers a wide range of hot food as well as drinks and snacks. I ordered the veggie burger and look what it came in:
We then went to get some fresh air and sat in Orsteds Park, and had a photoshoot on the bridge.
We then went to Copenhagen Tourist Information to get our Copenhagen Cards, we decided to get 3 day ones as we could cover everything we wanted to do in that time. They’re 100% worth getting, pretty much every major attraction is on there for free, plus free bus, train and metro travel, and stuff like free boat tours. They come in 24, 48 or 72 hours and will definitely be cheaper than buying entry to everything and paying for bus and train tickets. We also saw this cool building which is apparently a cinema:
We then took a boat tour that was free with the card and a nice way to see the sights when you feel like you’re dying. The tour guide was pretty entertaining and did the whole tour in THREE languages which was extremely impressive.
We then went to Church of Our Saviour – free with the Copenhagen Card – the top 100 steps of this tower are outside, with what I would describe as an insufficient railing. Once I got out onto the outside bit, it was a big fat NOPE from me, the world was swaying and my legs were shaking. I clung to the wall refusing to step out of the way for anyone until I found the courage to go back inside. Once in the safety of the inside part I managed to take this photo:
We then headed to Freetown in Christiania, which is kind of a hippy commune where there are loads of stalls selling weed, people smoking weed, hammocks, etc. etc. It would defo be a cool place to hang out if you smoked weed, but it makes me think I’m dying every single time. You can’t take pictures there, or run because people will think the police are coming because they’re all high and paranoid af. We went to this vegetarian restaurant there I’d heard about called Morganstedet. They make several dishes a day you can choose from, I had a spinach and chickpea soup with bread which cost 50 DKK and Lucy had some burrito thing that was 100 DKK. I would definitely recommend it, both dishes were very nice and the outside bit is a nice place to sit.
We made breakfast in our AirBnB which is a good way of saving money here – and you’ll definitely want one. We did a shop at an Irma supermarket nearby and spend about £28 on bread, eggs, avocados, crisps and cake.
We then went to the Hans Christian Andersen museum thing – free with the Copenhagen Card – which is a nice little place about Andersen with displays that read his fairytales out to you (The Emperor’s New Clothes, Thumbelina, The Little Mermaid). Sorry to any of his fans out there but they’re all pretty ridiculous.
For lunch we bought some food from another Irma to save money – we made our own cheese, tomato puree and crisp sandwiches (don’t knock it till you’ve tried it) and ate them outside Christiansborg Palace. We then headed inside, there are 4 main attractions (all free with the Copenhagen Card) – the Royal Reception Rooms, the Ancient Ruins, the Royal Kitchen, and the Stables. The Royal Reception Rooms were all pretty nice and grand, the kitchen was a massive kitchen, the Stables contained no horses but all the horse smell. The Ancient Ruins were OK but we particularly enjoyed the English translations on the exhibits, they were not great.
We then went up the Round Tower (free with the Copenhagen Card), a shorter and much less terrifying tower, without stairs! I wouldn’t say the views of Copenhagen are that great from above to be honest, but worth a visit.
After this we went to another palace – Rosenborg – again, free with the Copenhagen Card. This was cooler than Christiansborg and the guy that worked there was really nice and followed us around telling us stuff. It has a really nice grounds as well that we sat in and ate even more food.
Then we went to Nyhavn – this is postcard picture Copenhagen, and it is really pretty. I’ve heard it’s v expensive (even more so than the rest of Copenhagen) but we didn’t eat or do anything here. We had some time to kill before dinner as we weren’t hungry so we went on another boat tour that was free with the card – Netto Boats this time – which was essentially the same as the other one but now we know the history of Copenhagen really well.
We went for dinner at Copenhagen Street Food on Paper Island, which is just across the bridge from Nyhavn. It has a big collection of street food stalls all in one building with loads to choose from. I had vegetarian chaat from India which was a little spicy but nice. Lucy had onion rings, chicken legs and chips fried in duck fat from Copper and Wheat that looked delicious but sadly not at all vegetarian.
We then went to Tivoli Gardens. Entry is free with the Copenhagen Card but you have to pay for the rides. And quel surprise – they’re really fucking expensive. You buy tickets from machines in the park, each one is 25 DKK and each ride takes 1-3 tickets. We went on 2: the Rollercoaster, which is one of the oldest wooden rollercoasters in the world and looks tame but is actually surprisingly terrifying; and the Star Flyer which was a giant swing that I did not enjoy one bit because it felt like I was going to swing off and die. It took 3 tickets, so was about £8.51. If you’re going on more than 2 rides it’s best to get an unlimited ride band for 220 DKK (~£25.55).
On our last full day we decided to get the train to Roskilde to see the cathedral and museum. Lucy told me this was the oldest gothic cathedral in Europe or something but when we got there we discovered she was wrong and it was pretty much the opposite of gothic. It’s not the usual kind of overly ornate and ridiculous cathedral that looks like a colossal waste of money, time and resources. It’s more like your local church.
We then went to Roskilde Museum, the strangest museum I have ever visited. It starts with some Stone Age (maybe) stuff, I don’t really know, nothing is in English but we did get this very tattered English guide booklet. Then it moves on to more modern stuff like typewriters and a classroom and some cameras. Overall a confusing experience. If you were thinking about visiting Roskilde, I’d probably say don’t bother. When we got back to Copenhagen we decided to try to visit the Danish Design Museum (also free with the Copenhagen Card), only to find it’s closed on Mondays. Boo.
We then went to see the Little Mermaid. It’s cute but there are loads of tourists here, all scrambling to get a picture and you’re unlikely to be able to get one on your own. I’d say seeing it on the boat tour is enough.
Now for best thing we did this day: Visit Carlsberg. It’s free entry with the Copenhagen Card and you get vouchers for 2 free beers which you can get from various bars around it and take with you round the museum. We learned about the history of beer and Carlsberg, saw all the old Carlsberg bottles covered in swastikas, initially a symbol of peace they plastered over everything. I bet they had the world’s fastest rebrand somewhere between 1939-1945.
It was actually a really interesting museum, the free beer probably helps. We sat in the outside bar after we’d finished and decided to do the beer tasting they have every hour. It’s 50 DKK which is pretty cheap for even 1 beer in Copenhagen and we got about 4. The guy doing the tasting was nice, he kept pushing me to say what things smelt like and all I could come up with was ‘beer’. I mean they all smelt different, just like slightly different beer. By the end of this we were unsurprisingly sloshed and starving and got the bus back to Paper Island for some more street food.
This time I got some fresh pasta in pomodoro sauce with parmesan and garlic dressing from Il Materello. It was delicious, if a little al dente but maybe that’s how the Italians eat it. I was still hungry so I went and got some pizza as well from Madenitaly and oh my god, this was run by what I’m convinced must be a sloth masquerading as a human. They have the pizzas like half cooked and all they have to do is put them in the pizza oven for 2 minutes then serve them to people. There were 3 orders ahead of me and it literally took half an hour, my brain had caught on that I wasn’t actually hungry because I’d just eaten an entire meal but I wasn’t prepared to leave empty handed. I got a mushroom one and it was delicious.
When we got home I literally laid on the sofa for about 2 hours, the fullest I have ever been and regretting all of my decisions.
We then went to the City Hall. This had an art exhibition inside, I’m not the biggest appreciator of art but I really do think this one was genuinely shit.
We went all the way to Norrebro to try Rita’s Smorrebrod, which we had heard was good and cheap. Unfortunately Rita was selfishly on holiday, so we went to a place round the corner called Blue Taco. It’s 3 tacos for 100 DKK and I had one each of the veggie options – Tofu Dofu, Cactus and Chickpeas. They were all delicious and I’m not so sad that Rita was on holiday now.
Then we went back to the airport for home 🙁 I feel like we did everything we wanted to do, but it would have been nice to have longer to just hang around a bit more and go out again. Have you ever been? Is there anything we missed?